A Bend in the Road: the Legacy of Columbus Tustin

1870 map of Petaluma (image in the public domain)

Petaluma’s first death was by potatoes. In the fall of 1851, a farmer named Shirley was thrown from the wagon load of potatoes he was driving to the potato warehouse near today’s Washington Street Bridge, and crushed beneath its wheels.1

At the time, Petaluma was just coming into existence. The year before, meat hunter Tom Lockwood set up camp at an abandoned Miwok trading village called Lekituit (today’s Cedar Grove) for shipping game to gold rush San Francisco. By the time of Shirley’s death, the encampment had expanded to include a couple of trading posts, a handful of rustic cabins, the potato warehouse, and a combination general store, dining hall, and hostel operated by a disappointed miner from Missouri named George H. Keller.2

Shirley’s death occurred just north of the camp, at what is today the intersection of Petaluma Boulevard North and Skillman Lane. Keller and Lockwood, along with a young man named Columbus Tustin, dug a grave on the hillside of what would become Penry Park, where Keller read the service while the other men laid Shirley to rest in a rough coffin they fashioned out of redwood.3

A few months later, in January 1852, Keller set out to turn the camp into a real town. Staking an illegal squatter’s claim to 158 acres of the Rancho Arroyo de San Antonio, a 13,000-acre, privately-owned Mexican land grant, he hired John A. Brewster to survey and plat a town of 40 acres, extending west from the creek to Liberty Street, north to Oak Street, and south to A Street. Keller called it Petaluma.4

After selling off the lots to a growing influx of new settlers, most of them failed gold miners like himself, Keller returned with the proceeds to his farm in Missouri (where, two years later, he became one of the founders of Leavenworth, the first town in Kansas Territory).5

1855 map of Petaluma (Sonoma County Library)

Back in Petaluma, the potato boom went bust and much of the wild game was bagged within a year of Keller’s departure. But thanks to the continued growth of hungry San Francisco and to the steady stream of farmers settling in the area, Petaluma quickly became Sonoma County’s primary shipping port for an ever-expanding variety of agricultural goods.6

Soon after Keller’s departure, 26-year old Columbus Tustin decided to embark upon one of the first extensions of the downtown development, surveying and platting a subdivision he called Tustin’s Addition, that extended from First to Eighth streets, and A to F streets. He followed Keller’s example of positioning his street grid parallel to the Petaluma Creek (renamed the Petaluma River in 1959).7

However, Tustin aligned his grid with a different stretch of the creek, one just south of today’s Turning Basin, placing it at roughly a 45-degree angle to Keller’s grid. Then, instead of extending the street names designated by Keller, he adopted his own sequence of numbers and letters for street names, creating a disjunction where the streets of the two developments met.

1877 Map featuring Tustin’s Addition, extending from A to F streets, and First to Eighth streets (Thos. H. Thompson, Map of Sonoma County, 1877; Sonoma County Library)

Keller’s Kentucky Street (which he named for his native state, a common street naming strategy at the time) turned into Tustin’s Fourth Street; Keller Street (which Keller named for himself) into Fifth; Liberty Street into Sixth; and Main Street into Third (the two streets were combined in 1958 under the name Petaluma Boulevard, with a north and south designation).8

Just as Keller had centered his development around Main Street Plaza (today’s Penry Park)—marking the spot where Shirley was buried—Tustin did the same with the creation of D Street Plaza (renamed Walnut Park in 1896).9

Postcard of Walnut Park, circa early 1900s (postcard photo in public domain)

Tustin also deeded the northeast corner of Fifth and B streets to the town for its first public educational institution, the Bowers School, which was replaced in 1860 by the Brick School, and in 1911 by Lincoln School (converted later to an office building).10

Petaluma’s Brick School at the northeast corner of B and Fourth Streets (Sonoma County Library)

Unlike Keller, Tustin chose to stay in Petaluma, partly because he had come to town with his extended family. He built a home in the heart of Tustin’s Addition, at the southwest corner of Fourth and C streets (no longer standing).11

Born in Philadelphia and raised in Illinois, Tustin came west across the plains in 1847 with his parents and eight siblings. The family went first to Oregon, and then to the gold rush town of Sacramento, before settling in 1851 in the Two Rock Valley. By that time, the hardships of the frontier had taken the lives of Tustin’s mother and two of his siblings.12 Following the creation of Tustin’s Addition, the Tustin family members moved into town.

In 1855, Tustin’s father Samuel opened a lumber supply business in a fireproof stone warehouse, later known as “Steamboat Warehouse,” at the southeast corner B and Second streets, adjacent to the creek.13 Across the street from warehouse, Tustin’s sister Barbara Ann and her husband Joshua Lewis owned and operated the railroad depot for Charles Minturn’s Petaluma & Haystack Landing Railroad.

Despite being the third rail line in the state at the time, the tracks extended only two-and-a-half miles south of town to the deeper waters of Haystack Landing, where Minturn’s larger passenger steamboat could dock (Joshua Lewis was killed in an infamous explosion of Minturn’s steam locomotive at the depot in 1866, along with three other people, after which Minturn used draft horses to drawn the railcars along the track).14

Two of Tustin’s brothers, John and William, became successful inventors of farm machinery, including a self-regulating windmill, a grain reaper, and a gang plow that turned multiple furrows at a time. Their inventions proved popular during the California wheat boom that began in the mid-1850s, spurred by wheat demand first in Australia and New Zealand, and Europe during the Civil War. The boom continued into the 1870s, serving as the main driver of Petaluma’s river town prosperity, thanks to local industrious grain merchants like John A. McNear and his brother George Washington McNear, who was anointed in the 1880s as California’s “Wheat King.” 15

Columbus Tustin, 1870s (photo courtesy of the Tustin Area Historical Society)

Columbus however proved the most successful of the enterprising Tustin clan. In addition to Tustin’s Addition, in the 1850s he developed one of Petaluma’s first large-scale nurseries, initially comprising 80 acres west of town at today’s Western Avenue and Chapman Lane. Comprising 75,000 grafted fruit trees, Tustin’s Orchard won the prize for best nursery at the 1860 Sonoma County Agricultural and Mechanical Fair.16

By that time, the restless Tustin was already looking for new opportunities. Sales in Tustin’s Addition were slow. Property buyers appeared to prefer the north side of town, its hills less prone to winter flooding. Then there was the uncertainty of clear property titles given the legal battle over ownership of the Rancho Arroyo de San Antonio. It hung over Petaluma like a dark cloud.

In 1851, Congress passed the California Land Act, subjecting all Mexican land grant claims to the review of a Land Commission. By then, nearly half of California’s 813 land grants, comprising the best farming and ranching land in the state, had fallen into the hands of either American speculators or else American settlers who married into Mexican families.17

1860 U.S. survey map of Mexican Land Grants within 40 miles of San Francisco (map by Lander Ransom, Bancroft Library)

Ownership of the Rancho Arroyo de San Antonio was, like a number of the grants, cloudy. Originally awarded in 1838 to Antonio Ortega, General Mariano Vallejo’s major-domo in secularizing the Sonoma mission, the rancho had competing claim that read like a potboiler novel.

The same year he received the grant, Ortega entered into what appears to have been an arranged marriage with a woman 40 years his junior, Francisca Miranda, the 18-year old daughter of Juan Miranda, who had preceded Ortega as major-domo of the Sonoma mission before it was secularized in 1834.

By Mexican law, grantees were required to make the rancho their primary, actively improved the land with livestock grazing or crop cultivation, and not move out of Alta California. Ortega broke all three conditions.18

Leaving the occupation and running of the ranch to his father-in-law, Ortega, a notorious sexual predator, remained for the most part in Sonoma, where he operated a liquor store of the square. In 1843, soon after discovering his young pregnant wife had been having an affair, Ortega departed for Oregon on a cattle drive to make some money. He was gone for four years.

During that time, his father-in-law made his own claim to the land grant, asserting that Ortega had abandoned the property. Miranda died however before his claim was signed by the Mexican governor.19

Excerpt of 1860 U.S. Survey land grant map with Rancho Arroyo de San Antonio listed as “Miranda Rancho” (map by Lander Ransom, Bancroft Library)

When Ortega returned from Oregon in 1847, he turned over his claim to a Jesuit priest in exchange for educating his children at a school the priest was looking to build. The priest subsequently sold the claim to an American speculator, who died soon after filing his claim with the Land Commission. In 1853, the man’s wife sold the claim to James Stuart of San Francisco.20

Stuart soon discovered the competing claim, which had been filed by Thomas B. Valentine, a 22-year old speculator who purchased Miranda’s unsigned claim from his family in 1850, what many believe was a private rather than a public auction, as it was never advertised. That belief was supported by the fact that Valentine sold off portions of the rancho to his attorney, the court administrator, and the probate judge who approved the sale.21

Valentine ad in the July 23, 1852 edition of the Daily Alta California

After comparing notes, Stuart and Valentine became concerned that the weaknesses of their respective claims might cancel each other out before the Land Commission. They decided to cut a deal. Valentine agreed to withdraw his claim in exchange for a percentage of the subdivision sales Stuart made from the land grant.22

In 1855, the Land Commission approved Stuart’s claim to the rancho.23 He immediately opened a real estate office in Petaluma and began placing notices in the local newspaper, alerting residents of their need to purchase a bonafide deed from Stuart, regardless of whatever bogus deeds they held from Keller, Tustin, or any of the other squatter developers in town.24

Illustration of James Stuart (San Francisco Call, November 18, 1893)

Stuart’s claim applied only to the west side of town. The land east of the creek was part of the 66,000-acre Rancho Petaluma land grant awarded to Mariano Vallejo. In 1853, Vallejo sold 327 acres of what became early East Petaluma to a settler named Tom Hopper, who would go on to become a prominent banker and one the largest landowners in the county.25

More than 200 Petaluma residents paid Stuart an average of $350 ($10,000 in today’s currency) for their lots, resulting in a total take of $70,000 ($2 million in today’s currency).26 Tustin, it appears, partnered in purchasing unsold lots in Tustin’s Addition with Isaac Wickersham, a Pennsylvania lawyer who settled in Petaluma in 1853. Wickersham would go on to become a major land developer and banker, establishing Petaluma’s first bank in 1865.27

Illustration of Thomas B. Valentine (San Francisco Examiner, October 28, 1898)

Although Stuart split his Petaluma earnings down the middle with Valentine, the division of spoils wasn’t to Valentine’s liking. When Stuart’s claim went before the U.S District Court on appeal—a standard procedure for most Land Commission decisions—Valentine refiled his original claim, including depositions that spotlighted the weaknesses of Stuart’s claim, including that the Mexican governor’s signature on Ortega’s grant was postdated when the claim was submitted to the Land Commission.

Drawing of Petaluma’s Main Street looking south from Washington Street, 1862 (Sonoma County Library)

In 1857, the District Court upheld Stuart’s claim, after which Valentine filed an appeal to the U.S. Supreme Court.28 Meanwhile, the town of Petaluma, having grown to a population of 1,300, decided in 1858 to officially incorporate as a city, accepting Stuart’s assurances that his ownership of the rancho would withstand Valentine’s appeals.29

Tustin’s father, an active participant in early civic affairs, was elected to Petaluma’s founding Board of Trustees (city council).30

In 1861, Tustin set off to seek his fortunes in the newly discovered Comstock silver mines of Nevada. Accompanying him were three partners of a wagon-making business in Petaluma—William Zartman, John Fritsch, and Nelson Stafford. The men settled among 4,000 prospectors in the boomtown of Washoe City, just south of Reno, where they invested in mining operations and also constructed a mill for extracting silver ore from quartz they called the Petaluma Quartz Mill.31

Mining boomtown of Washoe City, Nevada, circa 1860s (photo in public domain)

After corporate bankers began assuming control of the Comstock mines and shifting milling operations to company-owned plants, the men sold their interests in 1864 and returned to Petaluma.32

While they were away, Valentine’s persistent court appeals resulted in an 1864 Supreme Court ruling that invalidated both his and Stuart’s claims to the Rancho Arroyo de San Antonio, releasing the land into the public domain.33 Under the Preemption Act of 1841, that meant Petaluma residents were granted first right of refusal in purchasing their property from the government at a nominal fee of $1.25 per acre ($21 in today’s currency).34

The large number of claims however presented an bureaucratic bottleneck. Prompted by Petaluma’s predicament, Congress in 1865 passed the General Townsite Bill, which provided for the government to survey and plat a city (for a fee), after which land patents could be easily obtained by citizens for their property.35

A committee of five men, including Tustin, appointed by Petaluma’s Board of Trustees, raised $3,000 ($50,000 in today’s currency) for a government survey of the city.36 Within a year of the survey’s completion, roughly 2,500 people had purchased pre-emptive claims on the 13,000-acre Rancho Arroyo de San Antonio.37

1871 bird’s eye view map of Petaluma (Sonoma County Library)

In 1867, Congress strengthened Petaluma’s position by passing a bill ceding to the city all government-owned land within city limits.38 Valentine however persisted in lobbying Congress for a court review of his claim. Finally, in 1872, he succeeded. Two years later, after favorable review in the Ninth District Court, the case went to the U.S. Supreme Court, who surprisingly approved Valentines’s claim of the rancho.

In lieu of the actual Rancho Arroyo de San Antonio however, Congress stipulated as a condition of the review, that should he be successful, Valentine would be compensated with land scrip that he could be applied toward the purchase of property in the public domain anywhere else in the country. With that, the cloud that had hung over Petaluma since its founding by Keller in 1852, was lifted for good.39

Tustin, meanwhile, had moved on from Petaluma. In 1868, he and his former mining partner, Nelson Stafford, purchased 1,360 acres of the 63,000-acre Rancho Santiago de Santa Ana in Orange County, splitting the property between them.40 Tustin surveyed and platted 100 acres of his half into a new town he called Tustin City.

Tustin City, California, circa 1890s (photo in public domain)

As he had done in Petaluma, Tustin laid out the street grid using numbers and letters as street names. True to his arborist roots, he planted trees throughout the city, leading to its distinction as Southern California’s “City of Trees.”41

Before leaving Petaluma, Tustin sold his residence at Fourth and C streets, along with the rest of the block it sat on, to grain merchant John A. McNear, who constructed an elaborate estate on the site in 1867.42

John A. McNear residence, Fourth and D streets (Petaluma Historical Library & Museum)

Tustin Orchards was split between W.W. Chapman and Ezra Cleveland, who named their respective roads to the property Chapman Lane and Cleveland Lane.

The Tustin Stone Warehouse at B and 2nd streets, which Tustin inherited after his father died in 1863, was purchased by Charles Minturn, owner of the Petaluma & Haystack Landing Railroad, along with the adjacent railroad depot. Following Minturn’s death in 1873, W.D. Bliss purchased the property, renaming it the Bliss Warehouse (site today of Ayawaska Restobar, 101 2nd Street, across from the Great Petaluma Mill).43

Tustin City found soon itself in the middle of the emerging orange belt of Southern California. Tustin’s grand vision for the city however was undermined when Southern Pacific Railroad rejected the city as the site of its southern terminus, choosing nearby Santa Ana instead.

The city of Tustin beside Santa Ana in 1900 Orange County map (public domain)

Consequently, Santa Ana grew into a large city, while Tustin (the “City” was dropped from the name in 1892) remained a relatively small agricultural town. Tustin died in 1883 at the age of 57, reportedly a disappointed man.

Much like in Petaluma, Tustin found itself transformed following World War II into a suburban bedroom community, growing to a current population of 80,000.44

In 1876, the coffin of the potato farmer named Shirley, who Tustin and Keller buried in 1851, was discovered during preparations in Main Street Plaza (Penry Park) for the city’s celebration of America’s centennial. They were respectfully moved to the John McNear’s new cemetery at Cypress Hill.45

Main Street Plaza, 1895, later renamed Hill Plaza Park, and then Penry Park (Sonoma County Library)

*****

Footnotes:

1“Centennial Resurrection,” Petaluma Weekly Argus, March 31, 1876.
2J.P. Munro-Fraser, History of Sonoma County (San Francisco: Alley, Bowen & Co., 1880), pp. 258-259; John Sheehy, “History Mystery Solved,” Petaluma Argus Courier, February 11, 2021.
3“Centennial Resurrection,” Petaluma Weekly Argus, March 31, 1876; Letter regarding Theodore Skillman’s Magnolia Hotel, Petaluma Courier, May 7, 1879.
4Munro-Fraser, pp. 259-260.
5Robert Allan Thompson, Historical and Descriptive Sketch of Sonoma County, California (Philadelphia: L.H. Everts & Co., 1877), p. 55; Adair Heig, History of Petaluma: A California River Town (Petaluma, CA: Scottwall Associates, 1982), pgs. 21, 29; Henry Miles Moore, “Sketches of the Early Settlement of the City and County of Leavenworth,” Western Life (Leavenworth, KS), August 3, 1900.
5Heig, pgs. 69-70; Munro-Fraser, p. 263; “Early Hunters,” Petaluma Argus-Courier, August 17, 1855; David Wharff letter to A.P. Behrens, dated April 26, 1918, page 18, from personal collection of Lee Torliatt.
7Sonoma County Deed Records, show two grants in 1853 from Columbus Tustin, one to Edward S, Jones, May 16, 1853, and the other to Fred Starkey, August 12, 1853, indicating that he was selling lots; the boundaries of Tustin’s Addition defined in Thos. H. Thompson, Map of Sonoma County, 1877.
8“Goodbye Main Street; It’s Petaluma Boulevard Now,” Petaluma Argus-Courier, August 26, 1958.
9The plaza appears in maps of Petaluma from 1865 and 1871. It was apparently under private ownership until 1873, when I.G. Wickersham sold it to the city of Petaluma; “Miscellaneous,” Petaluma Argus, December 26, 1873. It was renamed apparently by the newly formed Ladies Improvement Club. First newspaper listing under the new name Walnut Park: “Courierlets,” Petaluma Courier, September 22, 1896.
10“Former Resident Here,” Petaluma Courier, May 25, 1904
11“Courierlets,” Petaluma Courier, November 23, 1898.
12Munro-Fraser, p. 350; “Tustin’s Family Traced,” The Tustin News, March 25, 1982.
13Ads for Tustin’s Lumber Yard with the start date of December 18, 1855, first appeared in the Sonoma County Journal December 19, 1856; This was on lot 157, sold in 1870 to Charles Minturn by Columbus Tustin, after Samuel Tustin died in 1873. “Changed Hands,” Petaluma Argus, July 16, 1870; Sonoma County Deeds: Columbus Tustin grantor to Minturn, grantee, June 14, 1870; liber 20, p. 147.
14Heig, p 76.; “Married,” Sacramento Transcript, April 18, 1850; “Mrs. Lewis Called,” Petaluma Argus, February 15, 1900; “Petaluma Old Landmarks Going,” Petaluma Courier, August 2, 1912; “Ed Mannion’s Rear View Mirror” column, Petaluma Argus-Courier, September 14, 1963; Ed Mannion, “Historian Recalls Earlier Incident,” Petaluma Argus-Courier, July 5, 1967.
15“Sixth Annual Fair of the State Agricultural Society,” Sacramento Daily Union, September 22, 1859; “Tustin’s Newly Invented Self-raking and Double-acting reaper and Mower,” California Farmer and Journal of Useful Sciences, September 7, 1860; “Railroad Accident,” Petaluma Weekly Argus, October 30, 1869.
16“Sonoma Co. A&M Society,” Sonoma County Journal, April 22, 1859; “Sonoma County Agricultural Fair,” Daily Alta California, September 3, 1860; “Nursery for Sale,” Sonoma County Journal, October 26, 1860; “Sonoma County Fair,” Petaluma Weekly Argus,” October 3, 1867; “Courierlets,” Petaluma Courier, August 1, 1883.
17Paul W. Gates, “California’s Embattled Settlers,” California Historical Society Quarterly, June, 1962, Vol. 41, No. 2, p. 104.
18Transcript of the legal appeal in the District Court for the Northern District of California of “White vs. The United States,” December Term, 1863; George Tays, “Mariano Guadalupe Vallejo and Sonoma: A Biography and History,” California Historical Society Quarterly, Vol. 16, No. 3 (Sep., 1937), p. 237.
19“White vs. The United States” transcript; George, Tays, pp. 240-241.
20“White vs. The United States” transcript.
21Robert Lee, “Valentine Scrip,” South Dakota State Historical Society, 1972, pp. 263-264; “Report in the Matter of Juan Miranda,” Petaluma Weekly Argus, February 2, 1865.
22“After the Rogues,” Sonoma County Journal, January 30, 1863; “Supreme Court Decisions, Sacramento Daily Union, April 4, 1860.
23“After the Rogues,” Sonoma County Journal, January 30, 1863.
24Ad for “Office Rancho Arroyo de San Antonio,” Sonoma County Journal, October 27, 1855.
25“Ancient Land History,” Petaluma Courier, November 30, 1912; Tom Gregory, History of Sonoma County, California (Los Angeles: Historic Record Company, 1911), pgs. 433-437.
26“The First Fight of the Lobby,” Petaluma Weekly Argus, February 25, 1863.
27Ad for “Desirable Property for Sale,” Sonoma County Journal, December 24, 1858; Gregory, pgs. 271-272.
28“After the Rogues,” Sonoma County Journal, January 30, 1863.
29Thos. Thompson, p.20.
30Munro-Fraser, p. 284.
31Munro-Fraser, p. 551; “Things at Washoe,” Petaluma Weekly Argus, May 14, 1861; Ad, Sonoma County Journal, April 18, 1862: Stephen Madler and Kelly Tighe lease the carriage firm of Fritsch, Zartman & Co.; “Petaluma Mill,” Gold Hill Daily News, January 4, 1864; Ad, Sonoma County Journal, September 25, 1863: Fritsch & Stafford open wagon shop at old stand on Keller and English, having bought out Zartman; “Thanks,” Petaluma Weekly Argus, August 12, 1863; “Consolidated Gold and Silver Mining Company,” Gold Hill Daily News, November 27, 1863.
32“Washoe City Fades from View,” Northern Nevada Business Weekly, September 10, 2019; “John Fritsch,” Petaluma Courier, June 2, 1902.
33Robert Lee, p. 266; Transcript of the legal appeal in the District Court for the Northern District of California of “White vs. The United States,” December Term, 1863. https://law.resource.org/pub/us/case/reporter/US/68/68.US.660
34“Citizens Lookout,” Petaluma Weekly Argus, December 7, 1865;
The Preemption Act of 1841, 27th Congress, Ch. 16, 5 Stat. 453 (1841) Text of the law, accessed from www.minnesotalegalhistoryproject.org
35“Legislation for California,” Petaluma Weekly Argus, February 16, 1865; “The Miranda Case Defeated,” Petaluma Weekly Argus, April 3, 1865.
36“Settler’s Meeting, Petaluma Weekly Argus, June 23, 1864; Citizens Lookout,” Petaluma Weekly Argus, December 7, 1865.
37“Cause for Rejoicing,” Petaluma Weekly Argus, May 17, 1866; “Opposed to Miranda,” Petaluma Weekly Argus, April 26, 1866.
38Thirty-Ninth Congress Records, Session 2, 1867, page 418. www.loc.gov/law.
39Robert Lee, p. 272.
40“About to Leave Us,” Petaluma Weekly Argus, December 25, 1869.
41“Traces of Tustin’s Founding Family Still Visible in Town,” Orange County Register, August 30, 2012. 42“Former Resident Here,” Petaluma Courier, May 25, 1904.
43“For Sale at Great Bargain,” Petaluma Weekly Argus, May 14, 1868; “Changed Hands,” Petaluma Argus, July 16, 1870; “Local Brevities,” Petaluma Argus, June 7, 1878; “Tustin’s Family Traced,” The Tustin News, March 25, 1982.
44“Tustin History,” Tustin Area Historical Society, https://www.tustinhistory.com/tustin-history.htm; “Bill Soberanes Column,” Petaluma Argus-Courier, June 29, 1974.
45“Centennial Resurrection,” Petaluma Weekly Argus, March 31, 1876.

The Ladies Improvement Club

Women from Petaluma’s elite in the park. Top row, left to right: Miss Dell Jewell, Etta Ranard, Carrie Denman, Sarah Heald, Abbie Vestal, Kate Zartman. Second row: Rose Haskins, Alice Munday, Belle Zartman, Ida Jewell. Front row: Maggie Carr, Nettie Parker, Lizzie Shaver. (Sonoma County Library).

History is the story of individuals responding creatively to the conditions and circumstances in which they find themselves. At the turn of the 20th century, a group of bold and enterprising Petaluma women seized an opportunity created by such a circumstance, to carve out a public space, and in that space make a voice for themselves at a time when women’s voices in the public arena were neither welcomed nor respected.

The year was 1896. Petaluma’s big annual festive event, The Fourth of July, was approaching. The usual boosters—fraternal clubs, patriotic societies, school marching bands—were gearing up for the usual parade down Main Street as well as for the festivities that followed. There was a new twist to the celebration this year featuring bicycling, which had become a popular craze for both men and women in the Gay Nineties.

Two Petaluma women with bicycles, circa 1900 (Sonoma County History and Genealogy Library)

The Petaluma Wheelmen, a group of male cyclists led by a young lawyer named Frank Lippitt, were planning to stage the largest bike race Sonoma County had ever seen. Lippitt convinced one of Petaluma’s leading venture capitalists, John McNear, to build the Wheelmen a velodrome track at the agricultural park of the Sonoma and Marin Agricultural Society—today’s Sonoma-Marin Fairgrounds—completely on spec. Lippitt assured McNear that the Wheelmen will be able to pay him back after the race, given the thousands of tickets they expected to sell to the race to both locals and out of town visitors.

Sonoma County Wheelmen, Healdsburg, 1890s (Sonoma County History and Genealogy Library)

Rena Shattuck, editor of the Petalumian newspaper, saw an opportunity with the race. Given the large number of guests coming to town, Petaluma would need to put its best foot forward. But there was a problem. The two local parks where Fourth of July festivities were traditionally held, were complete eyesores, littered with garbage, overgrown with weeds, and even trampled by livestock. Shattuck proposed that if money was going to be invested in building a racetrack, money should also be spent on tidying up the parks.

It was not the first time the issue of the derelict parks had been raised. Main Street Plaza (now Penry Park) and D Street Plaza (now Walnut Park) had been points of contention since 1852, when Petaluma’s first city planner, the squatter George Keller, established Main Street Plaza in his street layout for the new town. As Petaluma built up around the plaza, local businessmen, unable to imagine a piece of prime real estate in the heart of the downtown that was protected from development, declared the plaza “a waste and a nuisance.”

The city’s board of trustees—precursors to today’s city council—agreed. Over the years they had tried selling the plaza to either raise money for straightening the river or else to turn it into something “useful,” by which they meant a business block, a city hall, a courthouse, a jail, a schoolhouse, or the usual city hall default option, a parking lot. In the meantime, they left the plaza barren, refusing to allocate taxpayer money toward planting trees, building paths and benches, or even supplying water for grass. Their intransigence continued for more than forty years.

The same attitude was largely true for D Street Plaza, originally sold to the city in 1875 at a fifty percent discount by John McNear and Isaac Wickersham, two of the wealthiest men in town. McNear’s large private estate sat kitty corner to the park at D and 4th streets, where the post office and the United Methodist Church stand today. Wickersham owned a big parcel of land extending from 4th and D streets to H street, which he planned to subdivide. A new park provided an attractive anchor to his new housing development, and an enhancement to McNear’s neighborhood.

Wickersham and McNear commissioned a design for the park from attorney Edward S. Lippitt, an amateur horticulturalist, but never acted on it. The city eventually planted a grove of walnut trees in the park in the 1880s, but otherwise allowed the park to be used as grazing pasture for livestock.

For Rena Shattuck, the plazas were not only a public disgrace, but also unsafe for any woman or child who dared to enter them. The founder of Petaluma’s first female-owned newspaper, the weekly Petalumian, Shattuck issued a call-to-action among her female coterie—the wives and daughters of Petaluma’s prominent merchants, doctors, lawyers, newspaper editors, and bankers.

On May 28, 1896, a dozen women gathered in Shattuck’s office in the McCune Building at the northeast corner Washington Street and Petaluma Boulevard North, across the street from Main Street Plaza. There, they agreed to form the Petaluma Ladies Improvement Club, whose purpose would be cleaning up the plazas in time for the Fourth of July bike race. Addie Atwater, a local socialite, was elected president. Rena Shattuck, vice president.

Atwater and Shattuck quickly convinced the president of the board of trustees, William Robinson, to grant them an audience at the trustees’ next meeting at city hall, then located on 4th and A streets (the current site of the A Street parking lot). Robinson, owner of a blacksmith and wagon-making company, reportedly agreed to host the women in order “to avoid being talked to death.” At the meeting on June 10th, Atwater, Shattuck, and Daisy Reed, a pianist and wife of a local physician, shared with the trustees their rationale for beautifying the parks.

City Hall, Fourth and A streets, 1890s (Sonoma County Library)

With the exception of one trustee—William Stratton, owner of Petaluma’s first nursery and known as the state’s “Gum Wizard” for his pioneering cultivation of eucalyptus trees—the women’s arguments fell on deaf ears. Instead, they were peppered with explanations of “the cold facts,” and repeatedly questioned about where they expected the money to come from.

Ultimately, the trustees agreed to provide water to the plazas, but only for the upcoming summer. Addie Atwater assured them that once they saw how beautiful the women had made the plazas, they would want to provide water year-round, for every year going forward.

The Fourth of July bike race was now less than four weeks away. For the Ladies Improvement Club, time was of the essence. Undeterred, the women, led by club president Addie Atwater, decided to raise the money for cleaning up the parks themselves. They did so by forming a women’s minstrel group comprised of the single young “society belles” in the club, including Zoe Fairbanks, Gertrude Hopkins, Lizzie Wickersham, Sallie Jewell, Sarah Cassiday, Ella Johnson, Lena Steitz, Minnie West, Estelle Newberg, Angie Tibbets, and Emma Palmer. The women staged a series of benefit concerts and fundraisers in the Petaluma Theater, known today as the Old Petaluma Opera House, at 147 Kentucky Street, raising $181.75 (roughly $5,000 in early 21st century currency).

The clean-up quickly proceeded with the removal of old tree stumps and cartloads of garbage and discarded tin cans. Being ladies, the club members did not do the physical work themselves, but instead hired male laborers. Emma Palmer, the daughter of a furniture merchant, proved an especially shrewd financier, selling off 10 sacks of cut grass to poultry men as well as the decrepit picket fences surrounding the plazas to cattle ranchers.

The plazas were cleaned up by July 4th, in time for the two thousand visitors who descended upon the city for the Petaluma Wheelmen’s bicycle race. Encouraged by their accomplishment, the Ladies Improvement Club pressed on after the bicycle race, expanding to sixty members, and raising more money by hosting masquerade balls, minstrel shows, carnivals, and even baseball games.

They devoted the money to improving the plazas with pathways, flowerbeds, iron benches, curbs, gutters, and velvety grass lawns. They outfitted D Street Plaza with a well, tank house, windmill, and water fountain donated by the Women’s Christian Temperance Union. At Main Street Plaza, they planted 50 date palms, 42 of them a gift from Mary Burdell, owner of the 30,000-acre Burdell Ranch south of town. The remaining eight were donated by local nurseryman and city trustee William Stratton.

Hill Plaza (Penry Park), 1910 (Sonoma County History and Genealogy Library)

The club was also instrumental in renaming D Street Plaza “Walnut Park,” and Main Street Plaza “Hill Plaza,” ignoring critics who sarcastically compared their efforts to rechristening “Chicken Hill” as “Poultry Highlands.”

MUNCIPAL HOUSEKEEPERS

The Petaluma Ladies Improvement Club is believed to have been the first of its kind on the west coast dedicated to civic reform. This was not without controversy at the time, even among women in the community, as a woman stepping into the public arena was looked upon in some quarters as undermining social propriety.

According to historian Paige Meltzer, the women who did justified their efforts as “municipal housekeepers,” working to clean up their cities and improve the health and wellbeing of their neighbors without openly challenging the paternal order of husbands and fathers. And yet, that’s exactly what they were doing. So, how did they pull it off?

To stress how groundbreaking Petaluma’s Ladies Improvement Club was, I’m going to briefly touch upon three of the major women’s clubs in Petaluma at the time— the Women’s Christian Temperance Union, whose local chapter was founded in 1879, and who focused on moral reform; the Petaluma Woman’s Club, formed in 1895, which initially focused exclusively on self-improvement; and the Political Equality Club, which was campaigning in 1896 for placing a amendment on the California ballot providing women with the right to vote.

A women’s club gathering in the 1890s (photo in public domain)

The 1890s marked the dawning of the Progressive Era, a period of social activism and political reform extending into the 1920s. For women—and I’m speaking here primarily of white, native-born, Protestant, upper- and middle class women—the Progressive Era offered a loosening of many of the repressive attitudes of the Victorian Era. Among them was the division of men and women into different spheres—the public, money-earning work sphere for men, the private, domestic work sphere for women.

This division was enforced by the Victorian code of “true womanhood,” defined as “piety, purity, submissiveness, domesticity.” Women were placed on a pedestal as the better, more virtuous sex, and at the same time restricted to that pedestal in terms of agency and field of motion.

During the Progressive Era, new definitions began to evolve as to what was permissible and normal for women. This was driven in large part by upper and middle-class women, who now had leisure time and were demanding greater personal autonomy and a larger role in public life. Limited in their access to higher education, a number of these women began to form women’s clubs focused on self-improvement and continuing education.

The new clubs were markedly different than the organizations that had previously existed for women, such as the auxiliaries to fraternal groups, like the Oddfellow’s Daughters of Rebekah and the Sons of Temperance, or church-related societies focused on charity.

By the mid-1890s, a handful of women’s clubs affiliated with the temperance and suffrage movements had evolved from self-improvement to community improvement, advocating for civic and social reforms such as a woman’s right to vote, child labor laws, better education, library creation, public health, and city beautification. These clubs offered a different kind of improvement for women, serving as training grounds in how to gain influence in a public sphere dominated by men.

Woman’s Christian Temperance Union

The Sonoma-Marin chapter of the WCTU, established in 1879, was the first California chapter of the WCTU. It came into existence at the same time that Frances Willard assumed leadership of the national WCTU. Founded in 1874, the WCTU initially set out on a moral crusade against men who spent their paychecks at the saloon and then came home to beat and sexually abuse their wives.

Willard expanded the organization’s mission beyond merely temperance to suffrage and a range of social reforms such as child labor laws that she advocated under the motto “do everything,” along with the campaign slogan: “Agitate-Educate-Legislate.”

The WCTU membership was comprised of upper and middle-class women from evangelical Protestant churches. Anti-immigrant, the Union refused membership to women of the Catholic or Jewish faith, and to women not born in America.

Women’s Christian Temperance Union, Sonoma-Marin Chapter. Left to right: Minnie Penrod Raymond , Georgina Kynoch, unidentified, unidentified, unidentified, Leoleon H. Ingerse, Lois Mae Van Bebber, Emilie M. Skoe. (Sonoma County History and Genealogy Library)

After Willard’s death in 1898, the Union distanced itself from suffrage groups, focusing their mission of “social purity” on eliminating the evils of alcohol, prostitution, and sexual impropriety, especially in the newly emerging technology of motion pictures.

In terms of posing a challenge to the paternal order, the WCTU carefully walked the line by invoking religious morality and the cause of “child-saving”—protecting children from the evils of the world. After denouncing suffrage in 1898, the national organization (but not necessarily the local Sonoma-Marin chapter) regressed to the position that a woman’s place remained in the home.

In Petaluma, the WCTU is best remembered for their granite water fountain at the corner of Western and Main street. Installed in 1891, it has survived numerous collisions with automobiles over the century.

Less known is the other fountain they installed in 1891, that of a statue of the Greek goddess Hebe—cupbearer to the gods—at the southwest corner Washington Street and Petaluma Boulevard North.

Hebe was depicted topless in the statue, apparently with hopes of attracting men to the water fountain. In 1913, her nudity became a topic of scandal in some quarters, and she was clothed with a kimono. The fountain was later moved to Walnut Park, after which time it disappeared.

Hebe Statue, Washington and Main streets, 1913 (Petaluma Historical Museum & Library)

Petaluma Woman’s Club

The Petaluma Woman’s Club was launched in 1895, a year before the Ladies Improvement Club. It’s membership was comprised of prominent middle and upper class women predominately from St. John’s Episcopalian Church.

The Woman’s Club’s main focus was on self-improvement through literary reading clubs, musical performances, and lectures. The club did not formally adopted civic service as part of its activities until 1909. In 1913, they constructed a clubhouse on B Street between 5th and 6th Streets.

Sketch of Petaluma Woman’s Club, 1913, by architect Brainerd P. Jones (Petaluma Historical Museum & Library)

The Political Equality Club

The Petaluma Political Equality Club was established in 1896 by Ellen H. Button, who also served as its president. A suffrage organization, its purpose was advocating for passage of an 1896 amendment to the state constitution providing California women with the right to vote.

A local chapter of the statewide Political Equality Association, the club was part of a decades-long suffrage movement established by Petaluma women that formally began in 1869 with the creation of the Sonoma Country Woman Suffrage Association, of which Ellen Button served as founding treasurer.

After the defeat of the 1896 amendment in California, the Political Equality Club continued to agitate for the vote up until successful passage of a California voting amendment in 1911.

Women suffragists, early 1900s (photo in public domain)

The members of the Petaluma Ladies Improvement Club had surprising little overlap with the three major clubs in town in 1896. A lot of the club’s success can be attributed to three emerging trends in the 1890s that they drew upon: the City Beautiful Movement, women in journalism, and bicycling.

The City Beautiful Movement

The City Beautiful Movement began with the development of urban parks movement in the 19th century. The movement advocated for parks not only for aesthetic appreciation, but a means of creating “green lungs” for cities blighted by the ubiquitous filth and stench of industrialization.

Beginning with the Progressive Era, the urban parks movement expanded to promoting parks as a means of fostering public interaction, social coherence, and democratic equality.

Still, for many city fathers like Petaluma’s board of trustees, parks were largely viewed as drains upon the city treasury, no matter how pretty they looked. What the Ladies Improvement Club demonstrated to the trustees was the value of city beautification in terms they could understand—return on investment.

In the mid-19th century, landscape architect Frederick Law Olmsted had proven in his design of Central Park in New York City that residences built adjacent to parks or along tree-lined streets with good sidewalks commanded premium prices in the real estate market, resulting in higher property tax revenues for the city, which in turn more than paid for the improvements that had been made, making them good investments.

Central Park, New York City (photo in public domain)

Known as the “proximate principle,” Olmsted’s findings had been the half-baked impetus behind Wickersham’s and McNear’s creation of Walnut Park in 1873. They just never followed through with beautifying it.

That changed with the 1893 Chicago Columbian Exposition in Chicago—a world’s fair—which became an influential social and cultural watershed event in terms of ushering in the City Beautiful Movement nationwide, and planting the seeds of modern city planning by providing a vision of what was possible when planners, landscape architects, and architects worked together on a comprehensive city design scheme.

Women in Journalism

Appointed to the Chicago exposition as an official representative from California was a journalist by the name of Anna Morrison Reed. Reed was, by all accounts, a force of nature. A noted speaker, journalist, poet, and publisher, she was a charter member of the Pacific Coast Women’s Press Association established in 1891, and founder of the west coast literary magazine The Northern Crown in 1904.

Anna Morrison Reed, founder of the Sonoma County Independent (Courtesy of Petaluma History Museum & Library)

Initially based in Ukiah, she relocated her press to Petaluma in 1908, where she launched her own newspaper, the Sonoma County Independent. In 1911, she was chosen to be one of the official speakers of California’s Equal Suffrage Association to campaign for the successful passage that year of the state suffrage amendment. In 1918, she was one of several women who ran for the first time for the California State Assembly, losing by only a few hundred votes.

It’s likely Anna Morrison Reed knew and associated with Rena Shattuck, as Shattuck often made visits to Ukiah in the 1890s to visit her cousin, who had married one of Reed’s daughters. Also, there weren’t that many women journalists in Northern California at the time.

In fact, in the 1890s, only 5% of journalists in the newsroom covering the “hard news” of politics, policy, and business, were women. The majority of women journalists were restricted to writing for the “women’s section,” covering gardening, food, and fashion, or assigned like Rena Shattuck early in her career at her brother’s newspaper the Petaluma Courier, to the society pages (where she wrote under the nom de plume Polly Larkin).

With the dawning of Progressive Era, women began agitating for the right to report on subjects considered the domain of male reporters. Led by a crusading woman journalist using the pen name Nellie Bly, not only did they prove that they were capable of handling a man’s job, publishers also learned that news or features written from a feminine perspective, one not merely mimicking male journalists, had market value—it sold newspapers. Historian Alice Falls calls this period the creation of a modern public space for women, where they discovered that their gender was actually working for them. In newspapers they found their voice in raising issues that weren’t being discussed.

Rena Shattuck, founder of the Petalumian newspaper (Doris Widger)

Having spent years writing the society column for the Petaluma Courier, in 1895 Rena Shattuck started her own newspaper—the weekly Petalumian. In her first issue she announced that “no scandals, bitterness nor sensationalism “shall enter into the newspaper’s columns.” The editor of the Petaluma Courier applauded her stance as “a womanly idea.”

In 1901, Petaluma’s other newspaper, the Argus, invited Shattuck to serve as editor of a special Thanksgiving edition written entirely by members of the Ladies Improvement Club. The front page was devoted to the achievements of the club, and the inside consisted of feature stories on education, local Native Americans, civic pride, local histories, and the temperance movement.

Special Thanksgiving edition of the 1901 Petaluma Argus, written and edited exclusively by women (Petaluma Historical Museum & Library)

Rena went on to serve as “Home Circle” editor of a west coast farm journal called Pacific Rural Press, and later as writer for the Associated Press. The Petaluma Courier called her “one of the best known women newspaper writers in the state.”

Bicycles

Finally, bicycles. In the 1890s, America was totally obsessed with the bicycle. There were millions of bikes on the roads, and young men like Frank Lippitt in Petaluma were starting “wheelmen” clubs to compete in races.

For women, the new technology of the bicycle became an enormous cultural and political force, as a woman with a bicycle no longer had to depend upon a man for transportation. She was free to come and go at will. The bicycle imparted a parity with men that was both new and heady. In short, more and more women came to regard it as the “freedom machine.”

The “Freedom Machine” for women in the 1890s (photo in public domain)

“The woman on the wheel is altogether a novelty,” wrote a newspaper at the time.” She is riding to greater freedom, to a nearer equality with man, to the habit of taking care of herself, and to new views on the subject of clothes philosophy.”

Yes, clothes philosophy. One of the freedoms that bicycle riding introduced to women was a shift away from the restrictive, modest fashion of the Victorian age. Cycling required a more practical, rational form of active wear. Large billowing skirts and corsets started to give way to bloomers, or baggy trousers cinched at the knee. At a time when middle class women rarely challenged fashion’s dictates, the novelty of sports offered an opportunity for women to rethink their clothing.

Bicycle bloomers illustration for advertisement (illustration in public domain)

But dress reform was not a simple matter of practical adaptation; it invoked and challenged popular perceptions of femininity, and so became a hotly contested moral issue. Eventually, the clothing battle, largely fought over the popularity of cycling among younger women, forever altered public perceptions of female athleticism and proper female behavior in public.

But while the bicycle technology brought new freedoms for American women, they were still a couple of decades away from securing the national right to vote. A bicycling joke from the era captured something of the challenge ahead:

Jack and Jill have just climbed a steep hill on their tandem bicycle, with Jill riding in front. “Phew, that was a tough climb,” Jill said, leaning over, breathing hard. “The climb was so hard, and we were going so slow, I thought we were never going to make it.”

“Yeah,” said Jack, “good thing I kept the brakes on, or we would have slid all the way back down!”

The Petaluma Ladies Improvement Club continued to manage their showpieces, Walnut Park and Hill Plaza, until 1911, when they turned them over “to the tender mercies” of a new parks commission created by a city council awaken to financial value of city beautification.

Walnut Park, ca. 1900 (Sonoma County History and Genealogy Library)

By that time, few improvement projects could be found in town that didn’t have the personal touch of the club, including trees lining residential streets, cement sidewalks, the purchase of the first city ambulance, the painting of water hydrants and telephone poles, sanitation in the schools, and the nighttime illumination of the town clock at Western Avenue and Petaluma Boulevard North to mark the time for errant, barhopping husbands.

The club also raised money for the new Carnegie library at 4th and B Streets, the land for which Addie Atwater sold to the city at half its market value, and they inspired the formation of other women’s civic clubs like the Oak Hill Improvement Club, which raised the money in 1908 to create a third city park at the city’s abandoned burial ground at Oak Hill on Howard Street. By 1909, even the more staid Petaluma Woman’s Club began to engage in civic improvements.

After Addie Atwater passed away at the age in 1912 at the age of 75, the Ladies Improvement Club fell into an inactive phase until the First World War, when they regrouped one last time to raise money for the Red Cross. Their spirit of progress, however, inspired ongoing civic improvements in Petaluma in the years that followed.

The city council, however, never ceased in their efforts to convert Hill Plaza (renamed Penry Park in 2001 in honor of Congressional Medal of Honor awardee Richard Penry of Petaluma) into something useful. In 1948 and again in 1960, the city councilmen put forth proposals to turn the plaza into a parking lot, only to be stopped by public outcry.

During a city council hearing on the parking lot proposal in 1960, a doctor named L.J. Snow stood up in council chambers and, quoting the poet John Keats, delivered what many considered the turning point of the evening. “A thing of beauty is a joy forever,” Snow said.

The Ladies Improvement Club would have been pleased.

SOURCES:

Thanks to Katherine J. Rinehart for her research assistance.

John L. Crompton, “The Role of the Proximate Principle in the Emergence of Urban Parks in the United Kingdom and in the United States,” Leisure Studies, Vol. 26, No. 2, 213-234, April 2007.

Petaluma Daily Morning Courier: “Another Fountain,” March 14, 1900; “These Ladies Worked,” April 29, 1898; December 29, 1886; March 16, 1900; “D Street Plaza,” January 13, 1886; (Reducing Hill Plaza) March 3, 1886; “Once a Public Plaza, Always a Public Plaza,” December 1, 1886; “The Work Goes On,” September 15, 1886; “The Improvement Club,” July 22, 1896; “Grand Marshall Collins, May 27, 1896; “Improvement Club Meeting,” September 7, 1896; “The League Meet,” July 8, 1896.

Petaluma Weekly Argus: (D Street Plaza Deed) December 26, 1873; “Let Us Have a Park,” December 4, 1874; (Main Street Plaza Stone Wall) August 9, 1878; “Our Plazas,” January 28, 1876; “Walnuts,” January 9, 1886; “Sanity in the Schools,” December 12, 1899; “Improvement Club Historic Meeting,” May 23, 1918; “Woman’s Club,” May 17, 1963.

Petaluma Argus-Courier: “Petaluma Rises to Fresh Fame and Glory,” May 1, 1901; “Thanksgiving Argus Edition,” November 28, 1901; “Obituary of Rena Shattuck,” February 26, 1942; Ed Mannion, “Women Championed the Green Spot,” January 30, 1960; Ed Mannion, “Rear View Mirror” column, September 30, 1961, October 7, 1961; “Once a Sleepy River Town, Petaluma Has Grown up in 160 Years,” September 25, 2015; “The City Board,” June 10, 1896; (Palm Trees), February 28, 1900; “Hill Plaza Parking Opposed by Greenery Lovers,” January 19, 1960; “Old Building Coming Down,” December 9, 1960; Bill Soberanes: “History of the Petaluma Woman’s Club,” Petaluma Argus-Courier, February 26, 1986; Bill Soberanes, May 1, 1972;

“The Woman with the Hoe,” San Francisco Examiner, May 19, 1899.

“Wheelmen Race at Petaluma,” San Francisco Chronicle, July 5, 1896.

“The Plaza Question,” Sonoma County Journal, November 7, 1859.

“Rena Shattuck,” San Francisco Call, June 22, 1896.

“Sale of Petalumian,” Ukiah Daily Journal, January 22, 1897.

Adair Heig, The History of Petaluma, (Petaluma, CA: Scottwall Associates,1982), p. 147.

Katherine Rinehart: “Controversial Plans Rocked Downtown Plaza,” Petaluma Magazine, Summer 2008; Petaluma: A History in Architecture, (Arcadia Publishing, 2005) p. 106; “Hill Plaza History Timeline,” Sonoma Country Historical Library Collection.

Marianne Hurley, Katherine Rinehart, Lucy Kortum, “Petaluma Landmarks,” Celebrating Petaluma (Petaluma Sesquentennial Committee, 2008), pp. 84-85.

Paige Meltzer, “The Pulse and Conscience of America” The General Federation and Women’s Citizenship, 1945-1960,” Frontiers: A Journal of Women Studies (2009), Vol. 30 Issue 3, p52-76. http://muse.jhu.edu/article/370523

Tom Gregory, History of Sonoma County, California, with Biographical Sketches (Los Angeles: Historic Record Company, 1911), p. 720-721

John Benanti “Cypress Hill Cemetery,” Petaluma Museum Association Newsletter, Volume 23, Issue 4, Fall 2013.c

Janet Gracyk, “Walnut Park, Written Historical and Descriptive Data,” Historic Landscapes Survey, National Park Service, May 10, 2009.
https://cdn.loc.gov/master/pnp/habshaer/ca/ca3600/ca3639/data/ca3639data.pdf

Petaluma Woman’s Club Year Books, 1903, 1913-1914, 1914-1915, 1915-1916. Petaluma Historical Museum collection.

Minutes of Ladies improvement Club 1896-1900. Petaluma Historical Museum collection.

Jeanette Gibson Jones, “The Petaluma Woman’s Club,” January 27, 1914. Petaluma Historical Museum collection.

Robert A. Thompson, “Petaluma, Sonoma County,” Out West: A magazine of the Old Pacific and the New (Lost Angeles, Land of Sunshine Publishing Company, Volume 16, 1902).

Jane Cunningham Croly, The History of the Woman’s Club Movement in America (New York: H. G. Allen and Co., 1898).

Petaluma’s Parks Visionary

By Katherine J. Rinehart & John Sheehy

Kenilworth Racetrack and Clubhouse, 1910, Sonoma County Library photo No. 41762

In 1927, Golden Gate Park’s famed superintendent, John McLaren, was invited to Petaluma to help beautify an undeveloped six-acre lot that would become McNear Park, donated to the city by grain merchant George P. McNear. It wasn’t the first time that a McLaren had been called in for parks consultation—thirteen years prior, McLaren’s son Donald, a San Francisco landscape architect, had performed his own evaluation. His findings were succinctly expressed in a Petaluma Argus headline that proclaimed “Petaluma Parks Can Be Made To Make City World Famous.”

The younger McLaren spent a day being led about Petaluma by long time friend, pioneer nurseryman and city park commissioner George Syme, along with three other park commissioners, Charles Egan, Ed Hedges, and Eldridge Dykes.

The Petaluma Parks Commission was fairly new, having been established in 1911, a year after Donald McLaren became a partner in the nursery and landscape engineering firm of MacRorie & McLaren in San Francisco. Prior to that, Petaluma’s parks had been beautified and managed since 1896 by members of the Ladies Improvement Clubs, who took matters into their own hands after the city refused to devote taxpayer dollars to maintaining public parks.

Postcard of Hill Plaza Park. Sonoma County Library Photo No. 7363

After touring Oak Hill Park, Walnut Park, Hill Plaza (today’s Penry Park), and Petaluma’s two gores—small, triangular pocket parks at Liberty Street and Stanley Street, McLaren expressed his amazement that while most cities were striving to secure a square or park, Petaluma already had many, and they all were well laid out and stylishly improved.

Postcard of Oak Hill Park. Sonoma County Library Photo No. 4841

McLaren was especially impressed with the “beautiful specimens” of oak trees he found at Oak Hill Park, a park created from the city’s first cemetery in 1908 by the women of the Oak Hill Park Club.

But it was Kenilworth Park that surprised him the most. Originally established along Payran Street as a fairground In 1882 by the Sonoma and Marin Agricultural Society, it was sold in 1897 after the state of California stopped subsidizing its operation. In 1902, the 65-acre tract was turned into a racetrack and horse breeding ranch named for the champion race horse Kenilworth.

It was purchased by the city in 1911, and transformed into a municipal park for baseball games, horse racing, rodeos, and a public campground (the Sonoma-Marin District Fair returned to staging annual fairs at Kenilworth Park in 1936, converting the horse-race track to auto racing).

“The trees are all grown, the roads and avenues laid out, and the foundation has been prepared,” McLaren pointed out after touring Kenilworth, “so that at a small expense it can be beautified and made a modern pleasure ground which will cost but little to maintain and will be the pride of the people.”

McLaren promised the park commissioners that he would send a sketch of a plan for making Kenilworth one of the prettiest parks in the whole state. “Good parks induce people to settle in a city,” he said, making them “a great asset of a modern and well-kept city.”

Harness Racing at Kenilworth Park. Sonoma County Library Photo No. 34414

In addition to the parks, McLaren also visited the famous nursery of William A.T. Stratton, known as California’s “Gum Wizard” for his cultivation of eucalyptus trees. McLaren expressed his surprise at the beauty and size of Stratton’s nursery, located on the west side of Upham Street where Tunzi Parkway is today.

He also stopped by the home of Dr. John A. McNear, owner of the Mystic Theater and the older brother of George P. McNear, at 216 Liberty Street, where McLaren was delighted by McNear’s famous Japanese plum tree, which he declared to be the finest he had ever seen in the country.

Although he was only in town for the one day, McLaren promised to visit Petaluma again. It was a promise that he most likely kept. In 1916, his firm, MacRorie & McLaren, was engaged by George P. McNear and his wife Ida Belle to assist with a complete renovation of the extensive grounds of their Belleview estate, located at the south end of town across from the current day bowling alley. In 1922, MacRorie & McLaren returned to Petaluma to provide landscape plans for the newly constructed Christian Science Church at the corner of the B and Sixth Streets.

Based on MacRorie & McLaren’s familiarity with Petaluma, it seemed natural that when Donald’s father John McLaren was invited to Petaluma in 1927 to consult on development of McNear Park, he would bring Donald along with him. Sadly, Donald McLaren had died two years earlier in 1925, the victim of an apparent suicide. That left his father John to provide his own consultation as to what should be done to assure that McNear Park was developed in such a way as to meet the needs of “a modern and well-kept city.”

Today the modern and well-kept city of Petaluma is home to 46 public parks and 10 distinct, County-maintained open space areas — an impressive increase from the six parks that existed during Donald McLaren’s visit to Petaluma over 100 years ago.

SOURCES:

Oakland Tribune: “McLaren to Advise Petaluma on Park”, October 17, 1927.
Petaluma Argus: “Petaluma Parks Can Be Made to Make City World Famous”, February 14, 1914; “Tunzi Parkway, Petaluma’s Newest Residence Court; Completed Today”, December 16, 1927; “Beautifying the M’Near Grounds”, March 17, 1916.
Petaluma Daily Courier: “No Appropriations,” March 28, 1895; “Agricultural Park,” March 9, 1897; “Ladies Release Charge of City Parks”, May 3, 1911; “Organized a Club”, March 24, 1908; “Landscape Gardners Let Contract to Beautify Grounds”, November 10, 1922.
American Florist, October 22, 1910 Vol. 22, page 620